Taking a Breath in Beyoğlu: Narmanlı Han

Narmanlı Han, which has maintained its place within the historical texture of Istanbul since the beginning of the 19th century, was opened to the public in 2018 after the restoration works that started in 2016. Although the 197-year history of Narmanlı Han has a completely different atmosphere with its new face, today's Narmanlı Han is a place worth seeing with its intertwining of modernity and history.

Narmanlı Han, Witness of Old Istanbul

Narmanlı Han was used as the Russian Consulate in the early 19th century. The architect of the building is the famous Italian architect Giuseppe Fossatti, who carried out the last major restoration of Hagia Sophia.

Although the building was used as a prison for a while in the past, in the 1930s, instead of being rented to merchants by its owners, it was rented to artists and publishing houses for low prices. It took on a new spirit as Narmanlı Dormitory, where many artists lived and produced works. We have the opportunity to learn that writer Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar, poet-painter Bedri Rahmi Eyüboğlu and painter Aliye Berger stayed here at the entrance of Narmanlı Han. There are also statues of these three artists inside.

After being sold to its new owner for 57 million dollars, Narmanlı Han, which hosts cafes, restaurants and various shops with its brand new appearance among the historical buildings of Beyoğlu, welcomes us with a cute face.

What's in Narmanlı Han?

One of the best things you can do in Narmanlı Han is to just sit there and have a coffee, because the place we are in is the beloved house of Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar, one of the most important writers of Turkish literature. The author, known for his novels such as Peace and The Time Regulation Institute, spent his most productive years here. Tanpınar, who built a life for himself behind the windows he covered with newspapers due to lack of money in a small room, loved the purple wisteria trees in its courtyard. Today, there is an ornamental pool in that courtyard and cafes where you can sit and enjoy your coffee. There is a statue of Tanpınar in one corner of the courtyard. Although Narmanlı Han, which took its current form with a modern restoration, has been criticized for losing its bohemian ambiance, it is also fascinating with its new atmosphere in terms of showing what we have when we bring the past to the present. This inn, where the writers in suits of the past lived with their records and books and hosted many young artist candidates of its time, is strong enough to carry the spirit of the young people in jeans of the 21st century and today's artists who now work with their computers and listen to their music on their phones for hundreds of years.

Museum of Illusion

If you want to do different activities when you come to Narmanlı Han, you will come across one of the most interesting ones. The Museum of Illusion may cause you to confuse fantasy with reality with its concept aimed at pushing the boundaries of the mind. However, there is an explanation for everything there. Visiting a three-story museum full of illusions to understand how illusions are formed will take both you and your children on an entertaining discovery. The time you spend in this museum, where you can take as many photos as you want, will be with you both in your mind and on your social media accounts for a long time. Definitely visit this place for an experience full of light effects, interdimensional journeys, fun mirrors and optical illusions.

And what did Tanpınar say:

“I am neither inside time nor completely outside of it..”

During your visit to the Museum of Illusions, you can enter a strange dream color like in Tanpınar’s poem and become lighter than a feather in the wind.

Food Hall

You will probably be hungry at the point where you say enough literature, enough illusions… Then you will be very happy to come to a place with three floors and a variety of food. Food Hall is a concept restaurant where you can find whatever you want. Street food awaits you on the second floor. You can find various fast foods that you can buy while walking. Isn’t the idea of ​​having a variety of flavors from Asia, New York and Turkey all together in one place exciting? There is also a terrace where you can watch the view of Istanbul in the Food Hall, which also has a large salad bar. You can finish your visit to Narmanlı Han by eating and drinking while enjoying the historical view of Istanbul.

As a traveler, it is your duty to visit Narmanlı Han during your Istanbul trip, greet Tanpınar and breathe in the present day state of Beyoğlu's magnificent history. Maybe a young person sitting in a cafe in Narmanlı Han will become a famous artist years later... While searching for the past, definitely visit Narmanlı Han to find the present.

Written by: Selin Hızarcı